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October 13, 2023

As a beauty editor, a significant part of my job involves testing products—a lot of products. I’m constantly updating my routine so that I’m able to make well-informed recommendations, and I’m more than happy to play guinea pig in the name of beauty journalism. 

But if there’s one item that often gives me pause, it’s a lash serum. I’ll brave a spicy microneedling appointment without batting an eye, but a mere swipe of serum so close to my orbs sends a chill up my spine. See, the eye area is super sensitive—apply the wrong lash serum, and you might wind up with tears, itching, and redness. And for some…deeper dark circles? 

Yep, really: Some lash-enhancing formulas may give you Bambi-like flutters at the expense of hollow under-eyes. Allow board-certified holistic plastic surgeon Anthony Youn, M.D., to explain below. 

To be clear, not all lash serums exacerbate under-eye woes. It’s the ones that contain prostaglandin analogues (PGAs) you might want to steer clear of, Youn shares in a recent TikTok video. 

These ingredients were initially used to treat glaucoma patients (with a drug called Bimatoprost) before researchers realized those patients had grown much thicker, fuller lashes. They discovered that the actives could actually extend the growth phase of hair; as a result, PGAs became the hero ingredients in more than a few clinical lash serums on the market. 

But here’s the issue with those PGAs: They have also been associated with periorbital volume loss, or as Youn puts it, “melting” the fat around your eyes. “There was a recent study published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal that found that this is true,” he shares. 

And fat loss in this area can make the blood vessels under the eyes more visible, as there’s no longer a buffering layer of tissue—so you wind up with darker circles. 

“The good news is that evidence shows this effect may be reversible if you stop using the treatment,” Youn adds. It may take some patience, and it might not work for everyone, but perhaps stop using the serum if you think a PGA-infused formula might be the culprit for that fat loss. 

For those who crave a fluttery set of doll-like lashes, you still have options! These ingredients are beloved for faster lash growth: 

• Castor oil: Castor oil’s moisturizing and antioxidant capabilities have made it a beloved staple for years in both Ayurvedic and Black households, and it can certainly keep the lashes you do have nourished and healthy. “It is super hydrating, so lashes don’t become brittle and dry or break, which happens as we age,” Ava Shamban, M.D., board-certified dermatologist , founder of SKINFIVE, told us about castor oil for lashes. 
• Peptides: Similarly, amino acid peptides contain good-for-skin and hair ingredients, encouraging the hairs you do have to be their healthiest. 
• Antioxidants: Antioxidants (think vitamin C and vitamin E) protect those tiny hairs from environmental aggressors, which can lead to lash loss over time.